The first thing to explain about the Outback of Australia is that the names of locations are changing. As the Australian government gains a greater awareness and empathy for the indigenous peoples they are starting to call things by their native names. The primary tourist destinations are actually geological formations, including pronunciations they are:
Uluru (OO-luh-ROO)- aka 'Ayers Rock'
Kata Tjuta (Kahtah JOOtah) - aka 'The Olgas'
Watarrka National Park (wuh-TAR-kuh) - which contains Kings Canyon
On a map they look pretty close together and easy to get to - in reality they are hundreds of kilometers apart and it's a long narrow road between any of them. Alice Springs is the nearest major city (roughly 30,000 inhabitants) and that is 500km from any of the formations.
Our itinerary was to fly in to Yulara, get picked up by The Rock Tour, see the sights, and end up in Alice Springs a couple days later. Josh ended up working very late the night before our departure so a nice 3hr flight/nap was exactly what the doctor ordered. Once we'd landed in Yulara we discovered that the major wildlife of the Outback is actually the black fly - they were absolutely everywhere and had a distinct fascination with Josh's shirt and eyes! Eventually our tour group arrived, we loaded up our stuff and hit the road. First stop - Uluru! While on the way we got to know some of our tourmates, and it was a very international bunch with folks from Holland, Denmark, Switzerland, Germany, UK, Canada, Japan, Korea, yours truly from the US of A and a lively Aussie tour guide to keep things on track and fun.
We took quite a few pictures of 'The Rock' on our way there and even more once we were actually at the base. Our guide Leith led us on a short hike to tell us some of the history and the Aboriginal stories that explained how the rock came to be and why it looks the way it does. One of the most interesting facts that he shared was that Uluru is in the exact geographic center of Australia and that all Aboriginal tribes had a storyline that linked back to the rock - it quite literally is the center of Aboriginal beliefs. Deciding that we didn't need to look down on a bunch of desert, we took a stroll around the base and got to imagine what it would have been like 100yrs ago when the tribal ceremonies were still happening and the tour buses hadn't yet discovered the draw of Uluru. After our walk we headed out to the sunset viewing area for dinner and more pictures. Leith couldn't really describe what sunset meant for looking at the rock, but based on the herd of tour buses it was the place to be around 7pm. More pictures ensued and the color changes of Uluru during the sunset were spectacular - the darkness just kept creeping up the sides until it almost turned blue! We ate our meal of stir-fried chicken and noodles in the dark and then packed up to head to our campsite. Again it is time to stress two important items, first that Josh hadn't slept much the previous night, and second, it is a BLOODY LONG WAYS to get anywhere in the Outback! By the time we got to the campsite and evicted the people that had squated in our spot, Josh was really starting to waver. Getting the fire started and watching everyone have a go at making S'Mores (at the urging of the Canadians) was plenty of entertainment. Unrolling our swags in the bush, and looking up into a dizzying field of stars was the perfect end to the day.
The next day started under those same stars in the dark and cold as we packed up to see the sunrise at Uluru. Again we were with a good crowd of other buses, though fewer people due to the much colder temperature. It is difficult to describe the color changes of the rock as the sun rises but Leith was right, it's like someone turns on a lightbulb under the rock and it just pops into a different color. Once the sun was up we went to the cultural center and learned more about the history of the place, along with taking advantage of an excellent chance to brush teeth in preparation for another day on the road. Kata Tjuta occupies the same national park as Uluru, but is roughly 50km away so not a short trip by bus. Upon arrival we went for another walk around the mounds ("heads" as it translates) and learned more dreamtime stories and legends of the area. After our walk was lunch, where we tried to eat more burrito than the flies - a challenge to be sure, but we were able to succeed for the most part. After lunch it was time for a serious drive to get to Kings Canyon. Over 200kms in the desert - it only took about 50 for most of the bus to fall asleep. Surprisingly Josh almost stayed awake the entire time and we took the opportunity to get to know some of our tourmates a bit better. Most of the talks with our new friends made us feel old and not very adventurous - the average age for the group had to be only 20-21 and most of the group were on extended tours alone! We decided that we probably didn't have that broad of a world view when we were 18-20, but its nice to still participate even if we are running a few years behind.
We stopped to pick up supplies (read 'wood') for the night so that we had a big enough fire to keep warm. It was a nice break from the long time in the bus, and also was interesting to see what the outback looked like up close and personal while picking up branches, twigs, and trunks. Shortly after our firewood stop we arrived at our destination, Kings Creek Station - one of the large cattle ranches of the area. Kings Creek has opened their doors to tourism and offer camel rides, helicopter tours of the area, along with nice flat campsites for groups like ours. Another go with the s'mores with better results after a night of practice and then off to the swags and stars for a good nights sleep. It was a bit sad knowing that we wouldn't see this many stars again for probably a long time as the complete lack of ambient light in the outback is hard to equal.
The next morning again rose dark and cold as we packed up to head for our final sight - Kings Canyon. The Kings Canyon walking path was created with permission and guidance of the native people and therefore represented a different style of preservation from Uluru and Kata Tjuta where the government had basically taken over and not considered the ancient and current importance of the area to the Aboriginals. The entire space of Kings Canyon had at one point been a sacred site to the Aboriginals; however, with their permission it is now 90% national park and 10% remains sacred and off-limits to tourists. Being able to maintain their ancient traditions while also embracing the modern tourists seems to be a very positive compromise allowing enjoyment by everyone that visits. After the walk and many stories of the area it was time for lunch at Kings Creek Station again, one last trip to the nice bathrooms, and then onto the bus for the 5hr drive to Alice Springs. Along the way we stopped at a couple roadhouses for bathrooms and petrol and stopped for a quick look at Fool-uru, but generally just kept on the road. Josh took an opportunity to sit up front with Leith and learned that the eagle population had been struggling until the road was paved. Once the paving was finished and more cars traveled along at higher speeds, the road kill provided a veritable buffet for the raptors and their population soared to record levels. We saw many many raptors including kites, eagles, and falcons - all feasting on last nights roo, snake, and other flattened fauna.
In Alice Springs we bid farewell to our tourmates, hoping to keep in touch and glad to have shared good memories with everyone. Being a bit older has privileges, like not having to stay in the cheapest dorm that you can find - so we headed off to our accommodations at Tmara Mara Bed and Breakfast. Actually, due to the tour bus schedule, our B&B Host came and picked us up to take us back to the house. First things first, after three days in the outback we needed to clean up so we drew a bath and relaxed in the warm water - being clean never felt so nice! Our wonderful host then offered to take us back into town so that we could track down supper, and taking her recommendation for Oscars which turned out to be a fantastic place for wine and a meal. We would HIGHLY recommend polenta bites as an entree, the lamb shanks as a main, and the rhubarb crumble for dessert if you're up to split a tasty treat - scrumptious! Back to Tmara Mara and a very comfy bed for the night.
Our plan was to explore town as long as we could while still making our flight in the afternoon. We spent the morning at the Alice Springs Desert Park gaining a better understanding of the various dessert environments and creatures. One of the highlights was getting to see another raptor show (especially after our rainy experience in Healesville) which was as fascinating as ever. Another highlight was one of the park staff shared his Aboriginal heritage with us, explaining some of the names and uses of the plants along with stories of the beginnings of Uluru and Alice Springs. Once we'd exhausted ourselves it was time to check out the downtown area of the Todd Mall, the touristy center of Alice Springs. Sadly, due to the public holiday many shops were closed for the day, but it was easy to get a feel for how busy the street would be during peak times. We were able to meet the creator of one of the more well-known opal dealers in Australia. Since Alice Springs is just up the road from Coober Pedy and being a touristy place, it is a natural expansion location. (Never fear, Coober Pedy is on our list of places to visit). Before we knew it, the time had come to head for the airport and head home. A misunderstanding with the cab company led to a bit of stress but we were able to get checked in and board the plane with no dramas. Another short 3hr flight and we were back in the cool and cloudy climate of Melbourne, and also back to our own bed.
It's taken this long to get all the pictures put together, so if you check out Flickr now you'll find our best shots of the trip. If you want to see all 499 that we took, let us know and we'll send you the first installment on CD - it should only take 2 or 3 CDs for you to get all the way through. *smile* Next up is more traveling around Melbourne and the completion of the wine rack - yay!
Uluru (OO-luh-ROO)- aka 'Ayers Rock'
Kata Tjuta (Kahtah JOOtah) - aka 'The Olgas'
Watarrka National Park (wuh-TAR-kuh) - which contains Kings Canyon
On a map they look pretty close together and easy to get to - in reality they are hundreds of kilometers apart and it's a long narrow road between any of them. Alice Springs is the nearest major city (roughly 30,000 inhabitants) and that is 500km from any of the formations.Our itinerary was to fly in to Yulara, get picked up by The Rock Tour, see the sights, and end up in Alice Springs a couple days later. Josh ended up working very late the night before our departure so a nice 3hr flight/nap was exactly what the doctor ordered. Once we'd landed in Yulara we discovered that the major wildlife of the Outback is actually the black fly - they were absolutely everywhere and had a distinct fascination with Josh's shirt and eyes! Eventually our tour group arrived, we loaded up our stuff and hit the road. First stop - Uluru! While on the way we got to know some of our tourmates, and it was a very international bunch with folks from Holland, Denmark, Switzerland, Germany, UK, Canada, Japan, Korea, yours truly from the US of A and a lively Aussie tour guide to keep things on track and fun.
We took quite a few pictures of 'The Rock' on our way there and even more once we were actually at the base. Our guide Leith led us on a short hike to tell us some of the history and the Aboriginal stories that explained how the rock came to be and why it looks the way it does. One of the most interesting facts that he shared was that Uluru is in the exact geographic center of Australia and that all Aboriginal tribes had a storyline that linked back to the rock - it quite literally is the center of Aboriginal beliefs. Deciding that we didn't need to look down on a bunch of desert, we took a stroll around the base and got to imagine what it would have been like 100yrs ago when the tribal ceremonies were still happening and the tour buses hadn't yet discovered the draw of Uluru. After our walk we headed out to the sunset viewing area for dinner and more pictures. Leith couldn't really describe what sunset meant for looking at the rock, but based on the herd of tour buses it was the place to be around 7pm. More pictures ensued and the color changes of Uluru during the sunset were spectacular - the darkness just kept creeping up the sides until it almost turned blue! We ate our meal of stir-fried chicken and noodles in the dark and then packed up to head to our campsite. Again it is time to stress two important items, first that Josh hadn't slept much the previous night, and second, it is a BLOODY LONG WAYS to get anywhere in the Outback! By the time we got to the campsite and evicted the people that had squated in our spot, Josh was really starting to waver. Getting the fire started and watching everyone have a go at making S'Mores (at the urging of the Canadians) was plenty of entertainment. Unrolling our swags in the bush, and looking up into a dizzying field of stars was the perfect end to the day.
The next day started under those same stars in the dark and cold as we packed up to see the sunrise at Uluru. Again we were with a good crowd of other buses, though fewer people due to the much colder temperature. It is difficult to describe the color changes of the rock as the sun rises but Leith was right, it's like someone turns on a lightbulb under the rock and it just pops into a different color. Once the sun was up we went to the cultural center and learned more about the history of the place, along with taking advantage of an excellent chance to brush teeth in preparation for another day on the road. Kata Tjuta occupies the same national park as Uluru, but is roughly 50km away so not a short trip by bus. Upon arrival we went for another walk around the mounds ("heads" as it translates) and learned more dreamtime stories and legends of the area. After our walk was lunch, where we tried to eat more burrito than the flies - a challenge to be sure, but we were able to succeed for the most part. After lunch it was time for a serious drive to get to Kings Canyon. Over 200kms in the desert - it only took about 50 for most of the bus to fall asleep. Surprisingly Josh almost stayed awake the entire time and we took the opportunity to get to know some of our tourmates a bit better. Most of the talks with our new friends made us feel old and not very adventurous - the average age for the group had to be only 20-21 and most of the group were on extended tours alone! We decided that we probably didn't have that broad of a world view when we were 18-20, but its nice to still participate even if we are running a few years behind.
We stopped to pick up supplies (read 'wood') for the night so that we had a big enough fire to keep warm. It was a nice break from the long time in the bus, and also was interesting to see what the outback looked like up close and personal while picking up branches, twigs, and trunks. Shortly after our firewood stop we arrived at our destination, Kings Creek Station - one of the large cattle ranches of the area. Kings Creek has opened their doors to tourism and offer camel rides, helicopter tours of the area, along with nice flat campsites for groups like ours. Another go with the s'mores with better results after a night of practice and then off to the swags and stars for a good nights sleep. It was a bit sad knowing that we wouldn't see this many stars again for probably a long time as the complete lack of ambient light in the outback is hard to equal.
The next morning again rose dark and cold as we packed up to head for our final sight - Kings Canyon. The Kings Canyon walking path was created with permission and guidance of the native people and therefore represented a different style of preservation from Uluru and Kata Tjuta where the government had basically taken over and not considered the ancient and current importance of the area to the Aboriginals. The entire space of Kings Canyon had at one point been a sacred site to the Aboriginals; however, with their permission it is now 90% national park and 10% remains sacred and off-limits to tourists. Being able to maintain their ancient traditions while also embracing the modern tourists seems to be a very positive compromise allowing enjoyment by everyone that visits. After the walk and many stories of the area it was time for lunch at Kings Creek Station again, one last trip to the nice bathrooms, and then onto the bus for the 5hr drive to Alice Springs. Along the way we stopped at a couple roadhouses for bathrooms and petrol and stopped for a quick look at Fool-uru, but generally just kept on the road. Josh took an opportunity to sit up front with Leith and learned that the eagle population had been struggling until the road was paved. Once the paving was finished and more cars traveled along at higher speeds, the road kill provided a veritable buffet for the raptors and their population soared to record levels. We saw many many raptors including kites, eagles, and falcons - all feasting on last nights roo, snake, and other flattened fauna.
In Alice Springs we bid farewell to our tourmates, hoping to keep in touch and glad to have shared good memories with everyone. Being a bit older has privileges, like not having to stay in the cheapest dorm that you can find - so we headed off to our accommodations at Tmara Mara Bed and Breakfast. Actually, due to the tour bus schedule, our B&B Host came and picked us up to take us back to the house. First things first, after three days in the outback we needed to clean up so we drew a bath and relaxed in the warm water - being clean never felt so nice! Our wonderful host then offered to take us back into town so that we could track down supper, and taking her recommendation for Oscars which turned out to be a fantastic place for wine and a meal. We would HIGHLY recommend polenta bites as an entree, the lamb shanks as a main, and the rhubarb crumble for dessert if you're up to split a tasty treat - scrumptious! Back to Tmara Mara and a very comfy bed for the night.
Our plan was to explore town as long as we could while still making our flight in the afternoon. We spent the morning at the Alice Springs Desert Park gaining a better understanding of the various dessert environments and creatures. One of the highlights was getting to see another raptor show (especially after our rainy experience in Healesville) which was as fascinating as ever. Another highlight was one of the park staff shared his Aboriginal heritage with us, explaining some of the names and uses of the plants along with stories of the beginnings of Uluru and Alice Springs. Once we'd exhausted ourselves it was time to check out the downtown area of the Todd Mall, the touristy center of Alice Springs. Sadly, due to the public holiday many shops were closed for the day, but it was easy to get a feel for how busy the street would be during peak times. We were able to meet the creator of one of the more well-known opal dealers in Australia. Since Alice Springs is just up the road from Coober Pedy and being a touristy place, it is a natural expansion location. (Never fear, Coober Pedy is on our list of places to visit). Before we knew it, the time had come to head for the airport and head home. A misunderstanding with the cab company led to a bit of stress but we were able to get checked in and board the plane with no dramas. Another short 3hr flight and we were back in the cool and cloudy climate of Melbourne, and also back to our own bed.
It's taken this long to get all the pictures put together, so if you check out Flickr now you'll find our best shots of the trip. If you want to see all 499 that we took, let us know and we'll send you the first installment on CD - it should only take 2 or 3 CDs for you to get all the way through. *smile* Next up is more traveling around Melbourne and the completion of the wine rack - yay!
1 comment:
Thanks for the postcard from the outback! It arrived today and it was beautiful. Sounds like a great trip!
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