Our first stop was Sydney for a stopover before an early flight the next day. Having been to Sydney a few times we didn't have anything specific to see or do, so we relaxed around Circular Quay and the Botanic Gardens, ending up at the Art Gallery of New South Wales. The current Monet exhibit was a great way to escape the heat and humidity and get a bit of culture at the same time. After the gallery it was time to head off to dinner and a movie at one of Sydney's popular tourist and local attractions, Govinda's. To make 'dinner and a movie' easy, Govinda's puts on a large vegetarian buffet, and then also show movies above the restaurant. The buffet was full of tasty Indian foods, the movie was unique (Burn After Reading), and the futons were comfy - overall a memorable experience.
The next morning brought our flight to Lord Howe, and after a bit of repacking to meet the 14kg/person limit on luggage we went to meet our little aircraft. No dramas on the flight and before long we'd landed on the island, met our host, and hopped into the van to take us to our apartment accommodation. We stayed at Leanda-Lei, which just happened to be associated with one of the boat tour operators on the island, allowing us to quickly plan out some activities for the week including a turtle cruise that afternoon. We spent the middle of the day exploring the area on foot, ending up at the lagoon to meet our boat to snorkel and search for turtles. The turtle cruise was a great success with many of the massive reptiles spotted (and of course photographed) proving that it is a big plus to have a local guide that knows where each turtle likes to hang out. Our first snorkel experience was also amazing with the amount of colorful corals around and also seeing both an eel and a nudibranch. The area was so full of marine life, it was definitely an indicator of how much more we would see throughout the week.
Our second day on the island brought the biggest challenge - a climb up Mount Gower, 855m of rock that defined almost half of Lord Howe Island. We booked in with Jack Shick, a 5th
generation islander, to take us up and down the mountain on the 14km return hike. Jack was great both in terms of knowledge of the terrain and island history. He also turned out to be quite the photo-buff and gave Josh a few more tips to consider for his photography. The brochures and websites about the hike failed to mention exactly how challenging the 'moderate-hard' walk would be, but had we known that it involved sheer cliff faces and using ropes to pull yourself up steep and slippery inclines, we may have reconsidered having the walk on our itinerary. As it was, by the time we realised the difficulty we were too far in and had to continue to the top to get a rest. The view at the top was amazing and the clouds parted to show the full island beneath us with some spectacular colors in the lagoon waters. We enjoyed our sandwiches and pretzels, psyching up for the challenging descent. Taking our time and staying as safe as possible we picked our way back to the bottom - proud that we'd made it, but also pretty well tired and sore.
generation islander, to take us up and down the mountain on the 14km return hike. Jack was great both in terms of knowledge of the terrain and island history. He also turned out to be quite the photo-buff and gave Josh a few more tips to consider for his photography. The brochures and websites about the hike failed to mention exactly how challenging the 'moderate-hard' walk would be, but had we known that it involved sheer cliff faces and using ropes to pull yourself up steep and slippery inclines, we may have reconsidered having the walk on our itinerary. As it was, by the time we realised the difficulty we were too far in and had to continue to the top to get a rest. The view at the top was amazing and the clouds parted to show the full island beneath us with some spectacular colors in the lagoon waters. We enjoyed our sandwiches and pretzels, psyching up for the challenging descent. Taking our time and staying as safe as possible we picked our way back to the bottom - proud that we'd made it, but also pretty well tired and sore.After a challenging day on dry land, we decided it was time to spend a day with the fishes and starting out feeding some of the semi-tame Kingfish found at Ned's Beach. These are not small fish, but they've learned over the years that if they hang out in the shallow water people will wade in and feed them bread. Not wanting to disappoint, we brought along a few slices and had a blast watching these massive fish go chasing after little bread morsels. Josh took the camera and got a couple shots underwater as well, though it is easier to see the size of the fish from Kristi's above-water photos. We had time for a quick snorkel around the reef at Ned's beach and then it was time to get ready for the afternoon's adventure - fishing! Leanda-Lei had organised a boat for some of their guests and we got to go along with a view towards catching our dinner. Having never fished in the ocean we didn't know what to expect except sun and water. With 5 fisherpeople aboard, the guides had decided that we would use hand-lines rather than poles for fishing. This allowed everyone to be fishing at the same time without getting into each others way and causing tangles. First stop was south of the island towards Ball's Pyramid where Josh got the first bite AND the first fish (not on the same spot). The first bite ended up being a small shark who proceeded to bite through the line once he got close to the boat, and the first fish was a good sized kingfish that proceeded to ruin Josh's shirt by bleeding everywhere. At least it was only the shirt being the biggest casualty of the day and nothing more serious. After moving to a different fishing spot the bites really started to be fast and furious with Kristi taking home the honors of both the biggest shark hooked (1.5m long Gallapagos Whaler Shark) and the biggest fish (another bigger kingfish) for the day. Our fishing buddies also had some good luck bringing in quite a few of their own Kingfish, a few Trevally, and a Bluefish. It was a great experience for our first ocean fishing trip, and fresh caught and grilled Kingfish is a treat that we enjoyed for two dinners and two lunches!
After all the excitement of the first two days, we spent the rest of the week either in the water scuba diving, snorkeling or kayaking, or on land traipsing around the island watching the various birds go about their lives. Josh was extremely happy to be back under the water and the diving was excellent with plenty to see including more turtles, sharks, eels and of course urchins. The dining on Lord Howe was actually very impressive and we enjoyed a few very nice meals out on various verandas with a pleasant breeze and the night sky. After a quiet New Years Eve we spent a glorious calm New Years Day with a morning scuba and an afternoon of reading books in the shade of pine trees overlooking the lagoon. We very much enjoyed our time on Lord Howe Island and by the time we got home we felt rested, relaxed and ready for a fun-filled 2009.

